What makes shells so special?
Cameos can be engraved on various materials—from hard stones to coral—but sardonic shell offers a unique combination of color, structure, and expressive delicacy. It’s a living material with a luminous, almost transparent quality that gives it a visual charm far beyond even more precious stones like lapis or agate. Skilled cutters can extract multiple cameos from a single quality shell through a process called scoppatura. Typically, two or three high-grade cameos come from the most rounded and prized section, and another few of medium quality. Even the lower-grade parts are used, usually for simpler, more commercial pieces.
What are your favorite subjects to carve?
Shell lends itself beautifully to many themes, but it’s especially suited to the classical subjects of the Italian tradition—unsurprisingly, these remain the most iconic motifs in this craft. Personally, I favor those same classical themes—think of Botticelli, for instance—but my workshop places no limits on creative direction. In Torre del Greco, there’s a wide variety of styles: some specialize in floral designs, others in traditional profile portraits. Often, the subject also depends on what the client requests.
Ottaviano Art works with major international luxury brands. What’s the key for artisans aiming for this kind of collaboration?
For over fifteen years, I’ve been crafting cameos for the dials of a historic Swiss watchmaking house, which even has a line dedicated to the Queen of Naples. To take on commissions like these, you need to deliver absolute precision, ultra-refined dimensions, and at the same time preserve the soul of a one-of-a-kind, handmade piece. That’s what luxury brands are looking for. Technology plays a role here, too. It allows us to combine the uniqueness of craftsmanship with the flawless accuracy these brands demand. These collaborations are deeply meaningful; they help artisans like us gain recognition—not just in Italy, but around the world.
Are there countries where your work is especially appreciated?
The interest and admiration we encounter abroad are remarkable. I’m thinking of Russia, China, and Japan—places where handcrafted work isn’t just admired but actively supported and, most importantly, protected. Sadly, in Italy, public institutions offer little in the way of recognition or support. It’s thanks only to the admirable efforts of foundations and private patrons that we receive any real visibility or acknowledgment. Their support gives us the strength and motivation to continue creating, generation after generation.
You’ve inherited your father’s legacy—who will carry on yours?
My father is 87 years old and still works in the workshop. My children are still young, but I’m hopeful! What’s essential is that they understand this craft requires sacrifice and a great deal of passion. It demands both study—ideally not only engraving school but also the Academy—and lots of hands-on practice. It’s not easy in the beginning, especially since we’re working with materials that are both precious and fragile. One mistake can be very costly. For that reason, I rely only on the most trusted collaborators, even for the preliminary work that precedes the actual artistic engraving. As I said at the beginning, it’s hard to convey what lies behind a cameo.
